When I first heard about Varkala in Kerala, I honestly thought it would be just another beach destination in India. I had already been to Goa a couple of times, so I wasn’t expecting much. But the moment I stepped into this little seaside town, I knew I had discovered something very special. Varkala isn’t just about beaches – it’s about the slow pace of life, the smell of the sea mixed with the aroma of coconut curries, the sound of waves crashing against the Varkala cliff, and the charm of meeting travelers from all over the world, especially Europe. It feels like a secret town that India has been hiding from the crowds.
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How I Reached Varkala in Kerala
I was traveling from Delhi, and the easiest way for me was to take a flight to Trivandrum International Airport, which is about 40 km away from Varkala location. From the airport, I booked a cab, and within an hour, I was at the cliff, looking at the endless Arabian Sea.
For those coming from Bangalore, there are two easy options – you can either take a direct overnight train that stops at Varkala Sivagiri railway station, which is comfortable and budget-friendly, or catch a flight to Trivandrum like I did, and then drive down. The roads in Kerala are smooth, and the entire journey is lined with palm trees, backwaters, and small villages that make the drive beautiful.
My First Impression of Varkala
Most Indian beaches I had seen earlier were either crowded or commercialized. Varkala beach was different. The first thing that struck me was the massive cliff overlooking the sea – something very rare in India. From the Varkala cliff, you can see the sea stretching out endlessly, and tiny cafes line the edge with their colorful lights in the evening.
The beach itself is cleaner than most beaches I have visited in India. It’s not noisy, there’s no chaos, and you actually hear the sound of waves instead of loud music. I was surprised to see more European travelers than Indian tourists. Many of them were just sitting in cafes with their laptops, doing yoga in the mornings, or heading down with surfboards. It felt like a small global community living by the sea, yet so peaceful and slow-paced.
Surfing in Varkala – My First Attempt
One of the things I had always wanted to try was surfing, but never really got the chance. In Goa, the waves are not always great for beginners, and in most other Indian beaches, surfing schools are hard to find. Varkala was different. I booked a surfing session with a local school on Varkala beach, and honestly, it was one of the best things I did on the trip.
The instructor was patient, explained everything in simple steps, and gave me the confidence to actually stand on the board for a few seconds. Of course, I fell a dozen times, but that was part of the fun. The best part was that the beach was not crowded, so I didn’t feel embarrassed while learning. I saw many European travelers practicing every morning, and some of them were living in Varkala for months, just for surfing and yoga.
Best time to See The Magical Bioluminescence
Now, this is something that made Varkala unforgettable for me. During November and December, the sea sometimes lights up with glowing blue sparkles at night, a phenomenon called bioluminescence. I had seen pictures of it online but didn’t believe it would be so magical in real life.
One evening, I walked down to Varkala beach after dinner, and the waves crashing on the shore started glowing faintly. It was like tiny stars floating in the water, glowing every time the wave touched the sand. I can’t describe how surreal it felt – it was as if the ocean itself was alive and breathing light. Not every night shows this phenomenon, but if you’re lucky and visit during November or December, you might get to see it like I did.
Where I Stayed in Varkala
I chose to stay at a place called The Lost Hostels Varkala. It’s a backpacker hostel located near the cliff, and it gave me the perfect balance of comfort and community. I met travelers from Germany, France, and even Australia, who were all either working remotely or just enjoying slow travel. The hostel had a rooftop where evenings turned into long conversations, music sessions, and sometimes even cooking together.
But if hostels aren’t your thing, Varkala has plenty of stay options for every budget. For budget-friendly travelers, places like Kerala Bamboo House and Heavenly Breeze Beach Resort are great, with rooms starting at ₹800–₹1200 per night. If you want something a little more comfortable and mid-range, Akhil Beach Resort and Clafouti Beach Resort are amazing, usually around ₹3000–₹4000 per night. And if luxury is your style, the Varkala resorts like Gateway Varkala – IHCL SeleQtions offer a premium stay with stunning views of the sea, starting around ₹8000 per night.
I also visited a Varkala beach resort run by a local family where I had lunch, and I have to say, the warm hospitality and home-cooked fish curry made me want to stay there just for the food.
Top Varkala Resorts
- Clafouti Heritage Beach Resort
This is one of my favorites. It blends traditional Kerala architecture—wood, bamboo, thatched roofing—with modern comforts. The views of the red cliffs from the resort are quite stunning. It has a beachfront restaurant, an Ayurveda spa, and relaxed vibes. - Black Beach Resort
If you want close access to beach + nice amenities, this is a strong pick. Located on the famous Black Beach in Varkala, it offers different room types (from standard AC/non-AC to heritage suites) and has a private beach, spa/yoga services, etc. - Samsara Beach View Resort (or Samsara Harmony Beach Resort)
Located near Odayam Beach (north of the main cliff area), this resort gives a more peaceful, less crowded beach experience. Oceanfront cottages, good food, cozy ambiance, and a bit more privacy.
Also Read: Kalpa – The most beautiful village of Himachal
- Willmount Cliff House / Willmount Cliff Resort
For those who want to be on the cliff side with sea views, beautiful terraces, open spaces, and a homely feeling. Great for quiet mornings, sunset views, and chilling out. Price tends to be above mid-range. - Seashore Beach Resort
This one is simpler than pure luxury, but its location near South Cliff gives you those classic beach + cliff views. As a B&B-style stay, it’s a good balance between cost and experience. - Divine Bliss Beach Resort
If you want something more upmarket but still not over-the-top, Divine Bliss is a strong choice. Clean, comfortable rooms, good service, and nice settings near the beaches. - Akhil Beach Resort
For a bit of luxury + calm, Akhil Beach Resort gives good perks; gardens, relaxing environment, possibly a pool, and decent access to the beach and cliff. - Sanctum Spring Beach Resort
If price is a concern but you still want beachfront comfort, this resort offers good value. The setting is lovely, food decent, and it still gives that beach resort feel.
Food in Varkala – Where I Ate
One of the biggest surprises in Varkala was the food. Since there are so many European tourists, the cafes here serve a wide variety of cuisines – from Italian pastas and wood-fired pizzas to Israeli shakshuka and hummus platters. My mornings usually started with fresh fruit smoothie bowls or Kerala-style appam with stew.
I particularly loved Darjeeling Café, which sits right on the cliff with a view of the sea. Their seafood platter was fresh and delicious, and the vibe was relaxed. Another favorite was Café Italiano, which served one of the best thin-crust pizzas I’ve had in India. For local Kerala flavors, I went to a small family-run shack near the beach where I had traditional fish curry with rice – spicy, tangy, and unforgettable.
Exploring Varkala Places
Apart from the beach, I spent time exploring different Varkala places that made the trip memorable. The Varkala cliff itself was my favorite – lined with cafes, shops selling handmade jewelry, yoga studios, and beautiful viewpoints for sunset. In the evenings, the cliff comes alive with fairy lights, music, and travelers sitting with their drinks while watching the horizon.
I also visited the Janardana Swami Temple, an ancient temple that is more than 2000 years old, and a short drive away is Kappil Lake, a serene backwater spot where the lake almost kisses the sea. But honestly, most of my time was spent just sitting on the beach or watching the sea from a café on the cliff.
Why European Tourists Love Varkala
I asked a few European travelers why they chose Varkala over Goa or other Indian beaches. Most of them said it was because Varkala is cheaper, cleaner, and far less commercialized. For them, Varkala feels like what Goa used to be 20 years ago. Some were here for yoga retreats, others for surfing, and a few had simply fallen in love with the place and decided to stay longer. It made me realize that Varkala isn’t just a destination – it’s an experience of living slowly, away from the noise.
My Final Thoughts on Varkala
When I left Varkala, I felt like I was leaving behind a piece of myself. This little beach town in Kerala doesn’t just give you pretty views; it gives you peace of mind. Whether you want to learn surfing, witness the magical glow of bioluminescence, or just spend quiet evenings watching the sun melt into the sea, Varkala has it all. And the best part? It’s still one of the most affordable and untouched beach towns in India.
If you’re planning a trip, my advice would be to stay for at least four to five days. Don’t rush. Let Varkala work its magic on you the way it did on me. Because once you’ve been here, you’ll always want to come back.
